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Yangon and around
Yangon
 Before being made the Capital of
Burma by the British Colonialists, Yangon in former
times was a fishing village of little importance, a mere
jumble of thatched huts. Today the town is also famous
for being Asia´s Garden City. Downtown Yangon is a jewel
of Colonial Architecture – but alas this jewel is
increasingly losing its splendour partly due to the
encroachment of contemporary building on traditional
sites. Historical Rangoon – as the city was once called
– was designed by the same Englishman who did the urban
planning for Singapore´s long vanished Colonial Quarter.
The combination of stately buildings in the British
neo-classical style shaded by rows of exotic trees is
particularly enhancing. The city centre is dominated by
the Buddhist Sule Pagoda believed to be more than 2000
years old. Its splendid golden dome (stupa) is one of
the city´s landmarks and cannot be overlooked. Adjacent
are India Town as well as China Town with their many
small shops and food stalls – a stroll through this
labyrinth is a rewarding experience of distant worlds.
Yet Yangon´s most famous treasure is the indelible
golden Shwe Dagon Pagoda. Yangon would not be Yangon
without it. Famed as being the most impressive building
in the Buddhist world – we are quoting experts in
history of art – the Shwe Dagon reigns supreme on
Singutara Hill overlooking the city, its 109 m golden
stupa scraping the tropical deep blue skies. An
unforgettable sight! But Yangon has much more to offer –
more golden pagodas, the giant Reclining Buddha, Yangon
River´s picturesque harbour plus the National Museum
bearing witness of the country´s glorious past. Visitors
to Yangon will see their dreams come true – the city has
so much to offer – except a “nightlife”. An evening´s
pleasure will be restricted to savouring the manifold
delicacies of the Indian, Thai, Chinese, Western and
indigenous cuisines which the many restaurants offer.
What a nice way to end a lovely day in charming Yangon.
Twante
A more or less full day excursion to
the Ayeyarwady´s vast delta is delving into Asia´s past:
From Yangon River harbour we follow the Twante Canal
(extended by the British) by boat for two hours to visit
Twante by bicycle rickshaw or horse cart (large golden
pagoda, interesting potters´ and weavers´ works) –
return to Yangon by bus/ferry or by boat. Along the
river banks we experience rural life, meet ancient boats
drifting by aimlessly – in Twante eternal Burma casts
its spell – unforgettable moments! George Orwell,
England´s unloved famous son and outstanding novelist
spent some of his days in Colonial Service in Twante and
later wrote his much to be recommended book “Burmese
Days”.
Thanlyin (Syriam)
 Halfday´s drive to Thanlyin – the
former Syriam – once a most important trading post in
British Lower Burma. Portuguese, Italian, Dutch as well
as British traders left their mark on Syriam – but it
was the devious Portuguese adventurer de Brito who
brought notorious fame to the region. Survivor of a
shipwreck he went ashore in Syriam, saved by the skin of
his teeth. After a few years in residence he crowned
himself King of Syriam in the self-created Kingdom of
Syriam! That lasted until a Burmese King captured him
and had him publicly quartered … Today we admire the
remnants of a Baroque church built by Italians, take the
row-boat to a tiny midriver island to see the Ye Le
Pagoda and stroll across the vibrant daily market. En
route we visit another two pagodas.
Bago
 Do you want to see the country´s
highest golden pagoda? Or the Reclining Buddha 55 m in
length and 16 m in height? Or Kyaukpun Pagoda´s four
huge seated Buddhas – sitting back to back facing the
four points of the compass? Would you like to follow the
studies of Buddha´s teachings with the monks of
Kyakhatwaing monastery? Or rather just stroll across and
enjoy the extensive river market? Well, it is time to
follow us to Bago. At a 2 hours´ drive from Yangon we
visit the former capital of the Mon-People. We travel
Myanmar´s only “freeway”. While returning, you will have
the chance to visit the temple (home of the nats
according to local lore) dedicated to the guardian of
travelling where motorists offer flowers to pray for a
safe journey. Bago, called Pegu by the British and once
an important sea harbour (before it silted up), has been
reborn!
Kyaikhtiyo
Reaching the Golden Rock 25 years ago
meant a journey of several days on elephants´ back,
nowadays the trip takes about 6 hours to Kinpun. This
important venue for pilgrims is at the foot of a
mountainous region and close to the Golden Rock. We
leave Kinpun aboard pickups (sitting on small stools in
the back) for a half hours´ steep climb and descend to
reach the middle station with a more or less new hotel.
From here it is a 1 hour’s climb by foot to reach the
Golden Rock, where you pass the original hotel near the
rock. Those not wanting to climb can hire a porter who
takes them uphill in
a bamboo chair. The reward is breathtaking: Way above
the valley´s jungles, reaching far beyond a cliff, the
mighty rock, encrusted with gold leaves by faithful
Buddhist pilgrims, its peak crowned by a
small pagoda! A hair of the Buddha is said to be
enshrined here. And it is this one hair that holds the
huge boulder, perched on a cliff, from tumbling into the
abyss below – the magic of believing!
Thaton
En route from the Golden Rock to
Mawlamyine this now rather plain town was in its heyday
the centre of the loosely connected Duchies of Dvaravati
reaching from Thailand via Cambodia to the south of
Burma and whose backbone were the Mon people. The
implementation of Buddhism in Southeast Asia was the
empire of Dvaravati´s great cultural accomplishment.
Nearly 1000 years ago, this realm was defeated by the
Burmese Bagan-King Anawratha, thus initiating the
decline of the Mon. Fortunately spectacular monuments of
the Mon culture presevered. In Thaton the golden pagoda
Shwe Zayan and a Standing Buddha in superb Mon style
remind us of their Golden Age which entered the annals
as Suvannabhumi, Land of Gold.
Mawlamyine/Moulmein
 When the British established their
Colony, Burma, in the 19th century, they made Moulmein
their first capital and this explains the perseverance
of its colonial charms to our days. Famous British
authors wrote about its former grandeur. Today,
Mawlamyine is number three in size among the cities of
Myanmar, situated 270 km SE from the capital. The
surrounding hills – crowned with pagodas – afford the
best view of the city on the river Salween which here
joins the Gulf of Martaban. The city also can be reached
by ancient ferries which connect Mottama (Martaban) with
Mawlamyine. The city is attractive and offers pagodas as
well as churches for visits. Exploration of the
surroundings show special sights such as the
strategically relevant building site of the infamous
“railroad of death” (to be reached via Kyaikhami/Amherst,
about 60 km). Planned by the Japanese, this railroad was
to connect Burma via Thailand with Singapore (The Bridge
on the River Kwai). A well-tended cemetery for allied
POWs working on and dying for this railroad reminds us
of these grievous times. Along the way several
remarkable pagodas as well as the building site near
Mudon of a 160 m Reclining Buddha enhance these
excursions. Moreover the ever close beaches beckon to
rest …
Hpaan
Hpaan, capital of Kayin State, is
surrounded by lovely hills and mountains. This is
perfect hiking country with its small lakes and many
grottoes. Moreover taking time to enjoy the local market
is a delightful experience. The colourful costumes of
the Kayin women are a sight-to-be-seen. Hpaan is in
between Mawlamyine and Yangon.
Pathein/Bassein
Looking at Pathein´s waterfront quays
is living the past: Buildings of colonial times next to
Chinese temples and Burmese pagodas, merchants offering
their goods, street-stall-restaurants, sampans on water
– what can be more exotic? Pathein, 180 km west of the
capital, is – and always was – the “rice bowl” of the
enormous Ayeyarwady river delta (300 kilometers wide),
the stream who once was called Elephant River. Pathein
is best reached by a comfortable ferryboat offering good
cabins as accommodation for the night. The city is the
gate to the beaches of Ngwe Saung (Silver Beach) and
Chaungtha. Pathein can also be reached by bus after a
long ride on bumpy roads! By the way: the much coveted
Pathein Hti, colourful umbrellas to shade against the
sun, is made in Pathein.
Pyay/Prome
 In 1877 the British colonists built a
railroad connection between Yangon and Pyay, formerly
Prome. It was the first to be built in the erstwhile
colony. Today we reach this important trade town on the
shores of the Ayeyarwady after a drive of 5 hours. The
city offers very little of tourist value, however, it is
the gate for excursions to the ancient brick pagodas
built by the Pyu people who vanished for a long time.
They were part of the Sri Ksetra empire which existed in
the 6th century AD, hence the pagodas of Sri Ksetra are
the oldest in Myanmar and are among the oldest of the
entire Buddhist world. Archaeologists have partly
restored some of these pagodas and have thus come across
Buddhist rock etchings as well as small Buddha statues
which can be admired at the local museum.
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